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Kobo's devices let you bypass the account signup via a single option in a config file. Whether you do so or not it's easy to install koreader and start writing plugins for it. You can also hack on the linux OS they use
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Yep, there's a plethora of tweaks and stuff out there to mess with Kobos to make them your own, and it's not hard to do.

Been super happy with my Kobo Clara.

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You can also sync to your own library - eg calibreweb.

It’s not too disgusting, and over-the-air is nice to have.

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There are Android e-Readers, like Boox, but that does not imply it is easy to do fun stuff. Seems pretty locked down. I have a PocketBook myself, no complaints there and you can install software (at least I can on the one I have but it is a few years old now) and thus never had the need to hack the thing.
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